Review: Proxies Big Red alcohol-free wine alternative
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Proxies is the most contentious brand in the non-alcoholic niche. Some people love them, but on the other hand, lots of people have bought them and cursed the person who recommended it. They are meant for foodies, but marketed to regular people who are looking for non-alcoholic wine with branding meant for Gen Z. They’re also at a price tag that although aligned with the rest of the category, seems outrageous to anyone first dipping their toe into the n/a wine space and trying a bottle of Proxies. I was neither of the above but somewhere in the middle - appreciating the complex process they underwent to make Proxies but also secretly wishing they were more like ‘wine’.
It’s taken me a long time to admit this, but there are actually a lot of people out there who don’t want to drink something that tastes exactly like the alcoholic version they are missing. Lots of these people are sober, but lots of them are also just occasional teetotalers looking for an alternative. I can see the value in options for both parties - a structured European red that tastes like a real red wine, or a complex, structured liquid that uses teas, herbs and juice to build something unique.
In the case of Proxies Big Red it’s a little bit of both worlds. On the one hand, it’s not a dealcoholized wine so the producers haven’t had to add artificial sugars, flavours and grape juice after dealcoholization to make it taste like wine. On the other hand, the complexity is on par with a high-end wine showing tannins, tabacco and fruit making it truly wine-adjacent in the best sense.
I’ll leave it up to you to decide where Proxies Big Red fits into your spectrum of drinks, but for now, here are my tasting notes!
Aroma
On the nose, this wine alternative has a great bouquet. Tobacco and fruit really foretell what you will be drinking in your glass. Just lovely!
Taste
I literally said Wow'!’ when the taste first hit my tongue. There are notes of cherry and blackberry, married with the unmistakable hint of Swisher Sweets flavoured tobacco. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not sweet in the traditional sense, but the tobacco notes have a hint of sweetness like a fruity cigarillo. It’s very pleasant alongside the juicy dark fruit notes.
If you’re looking for a tannic, dry alternative, this is it. Big Red is actually very dry. Other '‘not wine” alternatives have never been able to nail the dryness. To me, this means they taste more like a premium juice without the dryness and tannins signalling it’s something elevated. Big Red has all the things you want in the taste of a wine dupe - tannins, dryness, fruit, acidity and complexity. It’s really really good.
Mouthfeel and Experience
What I love about Big Red is the pinot noir consistency. It doesn’t sit heavy on the palate like a Non or a Kally. It’s got medium body and is neither thin nor cloyingly heavy. It drinks like a wine and I think Proxies has really outdone themselves.
The other aspect I really love about Big Red is that it’s low in sugar, which I know is important to a lot of people. Some other ‘not wine’ alternatives are very high in sugar because of the added juice so this was a bonus!
Overall
I really couldn’t get enough of this one! I don’t usually go for dupes, with the exception of Jukes Cordiality cans once in awhile, but I will be reaching for this one again especially since the price is so reasonable and the quality is like a $30 dealcoholized red. Win!
Score: 97
*This score reflects the category of wine alternatives that are not dealcoholized wine. It is not being compared directly with dealcoholized red wines, but some consideration was given to how closely it resembles a structured traditional red wine.
Where to Buy Proxies Big Red
How I rank wines (based on IWSC standards):
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
