Review: Zeno Tempranillo Cabernet
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Zeno has been in my peripheral vision for about a year now. I tried their still rosé and did not like it at all, but heard great things about the sparkling wine. I’ve tasted it and really enjoyed it, but haven’t had a chance to review it fully - if you like elderflower notes in your wine, you’ll absolutely love the Zeno Sparkling White with its complex yet crisp profile and lovely acidity.
Today I’m trying the Zeno red because it’s that time of year when people are looking for cozy drinks and red wines to enjoy in front of the fire. Zeno red is also available in both the U.S. and Canada, which is always a bonus for readers on both sides of the border (in Canada, it’s just Zeno with no varietal on the label available through SommZero, in the U.S. it’s called Zeno Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon available through the Zeno website).
Background on Zeno Wines
Zeno was founded in December 2022 by wine-trade veterans David Hodgson and Will Willis, after three years of intensive research and development aimed at creating premium non-alcoholic wine. Zeno is based in the U.K. but their grapes come from a single-estate, organic vineyard in Castile-La Mancha, Spain. Winemaking and dealcoholization are carried out in partnership with Spanish winery partners. As a side bar, David and Will are hilarious cheeky guys that keep popping up doing silly things on the Zeno TikTok account.
Zeno describes its red blend as a vibrant ruby red with a bright salmon-pink edge. It’s made using traditional fermentation followed by dealcoholization. The result clocks in at less than 0.5% ABV, with 2.8 g of sugar per serving - which I really love in a red wine, but in this case, low calorie and sugar has consequences.
Aroma
On the nose, there’s there’s a nice lift of black fruit and spice which doesn’t really stand out from other bottles of non-alcoholic reds at this price point. But… it doesn’t smell like grape juice, and that’s always a good sign.
Taste
On the palate, Zeno really leans into fruit and spice, showing notes of blackberry, raspberry, plum, and a very light peppery finish. There’s a lot of tannins, in fact too much I think. Similar to Oddbird Addiction, when winemakers overcompensate with added tannins after dealcoholization, it throws off the natural balance. It does gives the wine some grip and keeps it from feeling cloying, but at the expense of complexity.
Mouthfeel & Experience
That said, the absence of alcohol is really felt in this one. The texture is noticeably thinner than most of the better reds. It’s not necessarily “watery” but definitely lacking something. The finish is lighter and shorter than what a cabernet tempranillo blend would normally deliver. It also oxidizes very quickly and was not drinkable the next day unlike Zeronimo which can last for almost a week without breaking down.
What to pair with Zeno Cabernet Tempranillo
If served at room temperature and not chilled, it could shine with the right foods. It’s dry backbone would be great with burgers and BBQ.
Overall
The standard for non-alcoholic cabernet tempranillo is from the Edenvale Expedition Series and to this day sets the bar for how that varietal is dealcoholized. The Zeno red is good, but not great and I was really expecting a better expression of this delicious combination.
I don’t want to discourage you from trying this wine, but realistically know it’s lighter than a cabernet tempranillo should be and doesn’t have the complexity needed to carry it through.
Score: 89
I’d love to hear below if you tried this and what you think of it.
How I rank non-alcoholic wines (based on IWSC standards):
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
