Review: Studio Null Non Alcoholic Prickly Red Is a Spanish Treasure
/A review of a new holy grail non-alcoholic red wine that reminded me of my favourite Spanish reds
I found another holy grail non-alcoholic red! Studio Null Prickly Red non-alcoholic red wine has been on my list to taste for almost two years, but not for lack of trying. This perpetually sold out bottle was a thorn in my side, until I was finally able to commandeer one and understand why it’s so popular.
This non-alcoholic wine is so incredible, I think people are keeping it a secret so they don’t have to share. For me, it’s absolutely going at the top of my best non alcoholic red wines list (underneath Zeronimo Leonis Blend & Zweigelt of course).
When it comes to dealcoholizing wine, it seems one of the best grape varietals is tempranillo as there are now a few great non alcoholic red wines using it either alone or in a blend with fantastic results. Oddbird Addiction and Edenvale Tempranillo Cab Sauv are two that come to mind.
This new wine joins that rare group of complex, dry Spanish wines without alcohol you can pair with tapas, steak or enjoy on its own.
Studio Null is a hybrid brand - its parent is in the U.S. but the grapes are harvested and the wine is produced at small, family wineries in Europe. They launched in 2021, when two wine-loving friends decided the non-alcoholic wine scene needed some better options. The goal was to make real, dry, complex wines that just happen to have no alcohol.
Studio Null works directly with small family vineyards across Europe, with the people who truly care about the land, the grapes, and doing things right. These bottles start as well-made premium wine, and then they gently remove the alcohol using modern dealcoholization techniques to minimize loss of flavour and mouthfeel. The bonus is they don’t add artificial colours or flavours, and I think it’s important that each bottle from Studio Null proudly lists the vintage, grape varietal and vineyard region, which is a great move for transparency.
The Studio Null Prickly Red is a dry blend of Tempranillo and Syrah, fermented in concrete tanks and aged nine months in oak. I reviewed the Studio Null grunveltliner two years ago and it was great, but I have to say, the Prickly Red is their best wine and it is truly a joy to drink.
Aroma
If you’ve ever walked down into the cellar of an old winery, you’ll recognize the aroma of fermented grapes. This is the only way I can describe the old world aroma of this wine - it just smells like wine, with a bit of leather and chocolate.
Taste
I was blown away by the taste of the Null Prickly Red. If you’re still searching for a good non-alcoholic red, there is no excuse now that you can’t find one. As a former high-end wine drinker and collector, I can see this bottle fitting in on any wine rack as a good wine, period. It’s dry with the complexity, body and structure to pair with food, and balanced tannins and fruit. Notes of gooseberry, tart cherry, chocolate and a hint of oak. The sophistication of flavour is unique and very rare in this space.
Experience
The most interesting thing about the Null Prickly Red is the ‘carbonic bite’ from very light carbonation. This technique is called pétillant and is sometimes used to add a sensory lift, a taste of freshness and additional heft to the mouthfeel of a still wine.
According to Katja Bernegger, winemaker at Zeronimo Wines, it’s very unique to see in the non-alcoholic space but she sees the benefits.
“Carbonation transports aromas, and provides a nice mouth feeling,” she explained, which are the two elements of dealcoholizing wine that prove the most challenging. “It’s why sparkling wine is the most popular in the category [because it has both of those qualities from the carbonation].”
It’s not often seen in red wines, but it’s incredibly innovative for Studio Null to apply this technique as it creates one of the most beautiful wines in the category.
What to pair with Studio Null Prickly Red
I think the question is more about what not to pair with this wine. It’s fantastic with any type of food you would usually pair a lighter Spanish wine with - tapas, barbacoa, burgers, pizza, you name it.
Overall, 98 points (see my ranking system at the bottom)
This wine comes extremely close to the quality and sophistication of Zeronimo Leonis Blend, which is the current benchmark for wines. It’s worth the higher price tag because of its premium taste and well-crafted drink. This definitely stands out in the category.
Where to find Studio Null Prickly Red?
In the U.S., you can purchase directly from the Null website: https://nullwines.com/products/prickly-red ($34).
In Canada, find it through SobrMarket.com ($48).
How I rank wines:
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
