Review: Kolonne Null Dealcoholized Riesling
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At long last, I have finally been able to secure a bottle of Kolonne Null Riesling to review. It’s been a long saga with two different shipments from two separate retailers and four broken bottles in transit. And yet, I persisted because so many of you told me it was a great non-alcoholic white. I’m also a riesling lover, and even when I used to drink traditional wine I was a fan of off-dry, expensive rieslings. They are a sommelier secret.
A high-end German riesling from the rhinegau is usually off-dry with a strong minerality and classic notes of petrol and stone fruit. Its natural combination of acidity, sugar, and minerality makes it one of the most versatile and food-friendly wines out there - and usually at a fraction of the price of more prestigious varietals and blends.
A little bit about Kolonne Null
Kolonne Null is a Berlin-based non-alcoholic wine company founded in 2018 by Moritz Zyrewitz and Philipp Rößle, two longtime friends who set out to change what was, at the time, a pretty underwhelming category for two wine guys. Early on, they faced a lot of skepticism (just like every other n/a wine producer trying to make wine at the time) but they had a lofty goal to create alcohol-free wines that actually taste like real wine.
What sets Kolonne Null apart is their approach. Instead of starting with bulk or low-quality wine like many early dealcoholization teams did and still do, they partner with established wineries and work with high-quality base wines first, often collaborating before harvest to ensure the best characteristics for dealcoholization. The result after gentle dealcoholization is a riesling that feels much closer to traditional wine, both in intention and execution.
Aroma
I love opening up a riesling and smelling that waxy mineral aroma, and that’s exactly what you get with the Kolonne Null riesling. There’s also a hint of petrol and bright citrus, which is carried through to the palate nicely.
Taste
The best thing about rieslings is that they dealcoholize really well. The varietal has the exact right amount of sugar and acidity to withstand the removal of alcohol without completely stripping the flavour. The Kolonne Null Riesling is off-dry and has a fantastic minerality, typical of a good riesling. There’s medium-minus acidity with a hint of bright citrus. I definitely tasted a hint of Bosc pear and other orchard fruit. It’s a really nicely balanced wine, not overly sweet but full of flavour.
Mouthfeel & Experience
Kolonne Null has made a dealcoholized wine with the perfect medium body for a riesling. It’s a pleasure to drink - waxy and substantial without being cloyingly sweet.
What to pair it with
This is a waxy and off-dry riesling, but it’s also not as acidic as I wanted it to be. It didn’t pair well with gouda cheese, but was really enjoyable as a pairing with pork tenderloin and I could see it as a nice accompaniment to sushi or Thai food like spicy pad thai.
Overall
A wonderfully done dealcoholized riesling that I will be reaching for again. A lovely example of its style and really stands out from other whites in the category. I think the price is also pretty fair for the quality.
Score: 96 points
Where to Buy
$28 through Boisson (15% off with code SOMEGOODCLEANFUN) or $22 at The Zero Proof (no promo code needed - use this link and discount applied at checkout).
How I rank wines (based on IWSC standards):
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
