Review: Varnum 2024 Non-Alcoholic Syrah Gold
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It’s really rare for me to drink an entire bottle of non-alcoholic wine, but that is the only way for me to share with you how epic this non-alcoholic syrah really is. I thought I had experienced the pinnacle wine from Varnum Vintners in Oregon when I reviewed their non-alcoholic pinot noir, but their Varnum 2024 Syrah Gold really takes the cake. It’s a 100 point non-alcoholic wine in my humble opinion, ranking side by side with Zeronimo Leonis Blend and slightly higher than Oceano Zero Pinot Noir.
I reached out to the winemaker Taralyn Varnum to find out how they managed to make this incredibly fine non-alcoholic wine. If you recall from our interview, Varnum Vintners is run solely by Taralyn and her husband who manage all the operations and day to day by themselves. They are forward thinkers and produce roughly 2000 cases of wine, with 10% being non-alcoholic - one of the only Oregon vineyards to be cashing in on the rising popularity of dealcoholized wines.
About this syrah, Taralyn says they’re very proud of it but have more to explore.
“We know that it is the best n/a red we have made to date, but are more excited for the next one. We have come so far but I feel like we can push the boundaries of NA a bit further!”
The 2024 Syrah Gold is produced from a blend of syrah grapes grown in the Rocks district in north eastern Oregon. The ten barrels of wine spent 16 months in French oak before being dealcoholized using spinning cone.
Why is this particular syrah just so good? Taralyn says the answer is the base wine and the terroir of the Rocks.
“The Rocks district is world renowned for powerful and minerally wines. Craft winemaking and extended barrel age are a factor. But blending and finishing are the key. We have spent extensive time tasting and selecting for barrels that will be best for dealcoholizing,” she explains. “ That plus some strategic blending and also extensive trials for the finishing of each of the styles we make.”
They definitely have the magic touch!
*Note: I chilled this for 10 minutes in an ice bucket and then let it breath for 5-10 minutes before tasting; I brought the half-empty bottle to a dinner and drank it at room temperature which was totally fine too!
Aroma
An absolutely stunning aroma with earthy tannins, pepper, sunbaked fruit and a hint of leather very reflective of the syrah varietal.
Taste
It really always comes down to taste with non-alcoholic wine and in this category, this dealcoholized syrah really shines. There are soft gentle notes of blackberries and dark cherry, with some oak and a hint of that syrah pepper we all love.
You can really taste not only the primary flavours but also some secondary and tertiary layers that usually get stripped out with dealcoholization. The tannins are oh so good - dry and lightly puckery as they should be with a bit of acidity.
There’s an excellent balance between tannins and fruit. It’s also got a great length, lingering with the full taste of the wine (always so rare in a non-alcoholic red). What an incredible taste!
Mouthfeel and Experience
The Varnum dealcoholized syrah has a medium-minus body, but what is so incredible about it is that it’s perfectly structured. It doesn’t fall apart in the middle at all. It’s light without being thin and has a very round fulsome mouthfeel. To me, the experience is exactly like a cool-climate syrah.
What to pair with Varnum 2024 Syrah Gold
This lighter, cool-climate spicy and fruity syrah is a great food wine. It will be delightful with roast chicken, pork tenderloin, lightly savoury sides, tomato-based beef stew, and even cozy soups. It really is so good it will pair with almost anything that goes with a light syrah.
Overall
I wanted to just sip this slowly - oh so slowly. For fine wine lovers, you know what I mean. The dance of flavours on your tongue, the lingering finish just sinking into your memory. It’s something I’ve missed so much. It’s elegant and precise, and really a perfect wine for fine wine lovers. Just incredible!
Score: 100 points
Find the Varnum 2024 Syrah Gold at the wineries website varnumvintners.com ($40).
How I rank wines (based on IWSC standards):
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
