Review: The Substitute Alcohol-Removed Cabernet Sauvignon
/If you like dealcoholized red wines with a real personality, this one is for you!
As mentioned in my review for The Substitute Riesling, this non-alcoholic wine brand is a new brand from the The Zero Proof. They have four styles including a white, red, rosé and sparkling option.
Today I’m tackling The Substitute Cabernet Sauvignon and decided to do some digging. The most interesting aspect of this specific bottle is that the label says it’s made in Hungary. What I discovered is it’s actually produced under another name in the EU by a very large German wine corporation called Weinkellerei Hechtsheim. The wine is made in Hungary, but dealcoholized in Germany. I found it fascinating to get an inside peak at the industrialization of this category and how long the supply chain is, in an industry a fraction of the size only a few years ago.
Cabernet sauvignon is one of the world’s most popular grape varietals and it’s now grown in almost every wine growing region around the globe. It’s a late ripening grape, so southern Hungary is a great place for it to flourish with the protective mountain ranges trapping the warmer Mediterranean air.
I love history, so obviously, I had to dig into the insane story of Hungarian wine. Hungary has been producing quality wines since the 1600s, even getting a nod from King Louis XIV for its sweet wines. In the 1900s, the Soviet Union took control of the country’s wineries and switched production to low-quality bulk wines for the Soviet bloc. This destroyed Hungary’s reputation for winemaking and they were slowly forgotten about. In the post-Soviet revival, Hungary has had massive investments into its wine industry and have started to garner accolades for their volcanic whites and complex reds.
So, let’s uncork this very unique non-alcoholic red and see if Hungary has delivered a new gem!
Aroma
Cassis and black currant on the nose, but there’s also a faint aroma of dried raisin. This is more common than you think with dealcoholized reds. It doesn’t mean it’s a bad wine, just that there are some remnants from the process of removing alcohol.
Taste
Soft, dry and tannic on the palate. A hint of fresh cherry which is really nice in a red. The fruit is a bit heavy, but I think that’s needed to be an effective ‘dupe’ of cabernet sauvignon.
What’s different about this wine is that there are some herbal aromatics - a little bit of a vegetal bell pepper backbone which is a nice counterpoint to the sweetness.
During the first few sips, I smelled a little bit of fresh cut lumber. Not a bad smell, but definitely not natural and comes from the addition of oak extract. It actually dissipated after a few sips though so I’m not holding it against it.
This is a complicated non-alcoholic wine to explain. I can taste the soft tannins and hint of fruit, but there's something in the depths, something a little sweeter underneath almost like kosher wine but not quite venturing there. It dissipated completely when I poured a glass the second day, so my advice is to let this wine breath for at least 30 minutes before serving if you can. And don’t chill it or the vegetal pepper really come out.
Mouthfeel & Experience
It’s really hard to dupe a cabernet sauvignon partially because it’s so hard to get the texture and mouthfeel correct. The Substitute cab sauv tried its best and it’s actually not bad when it comes to the weight. It’s got a medium-plus body that drinks well. I was disappointed in the length but as I experience more and more n/a red wines, I realize that length generally means ‘expensive to make’ so not all reds will have it. This wine is $17 and it’s just perfectly made for that price point.
Food pairing
On the first day I tried this wine, when it was crisp and slightly chilled, there was a bit more of a kick that I would have said pairs well with prime beef burgers or lamb. I think its better at room temperature though, and then its juicy enough for pasta or burgers or pizza. But there isn’t enough tannic backbone to cut through the fat of steaks. This is definitely an easy drinking red for casual Friday night fare!
Overall
This is an interesting n/a wine to drink. I didn’t like the first few sips but then it grew on me. I tried it again much later after food, and liked it a lot better once it had aerated properly. I liked it even more the next day at room temperature. My take is that it’s almost bordering on a Chilean carménère, more than a traditional cabernet sauvignon, because of the hint of bell pepper. A good wine for the price!
Score: 93.5 points
Find it at: The Zero Proof, $17 (15% OFF your cart with this link)
How I rank wines (based on IWSC standards):
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
