Review: Nett Breakaway Dealcoholized Merlot

“No, if anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f*ing Merlot!” - Paul Giamatti, Sideways, 2004

If you’re a film fan, you might remember probably the most famous line of all time about merlot from the movie Sideways in 2004. Some say that it was a death blow to the varietal after years of overproduction and pop-culture dominance.

Sadly, Merlot was perhaps one of my favorite wines when I was a traditional wine drinker, because of its plush flavour, soft tannins and supreme drinkability. But on the world stage, its 1990s/2000s popularity meant a rush to shelves of cheap, low-quality merlot and it became a victim of its own success. Red wine lovers turned to shiraz and zinfandel and of course, Napa cabs.

Merlot is also a hard grape to dealcoholize, with medium acidity levels and really soft tannins. However, Bergdolt, Reif & Nett has done the impossible and managed to dealcoholize a great merlot.

As mentioned in the Nett Riesling review, Bergdolt, Reif & Nett is a 5th generation family-owned and run vineyard in the German wine region called the Palatinate. They’ve been pioneers alongside Zeronimo in the area of dealcoholization with the Solos aroma recovery system (also based in Germany). The culture and leadership at the winery is focused on innovation and inclusivity alongside quality, which has resulted in a line of exceptional non-alcoholic wines.

Their Breakaway Merlot is one of several red varietals they produce, and I think it’s actually the best in the line.

Note on preparation: Screw cap opened for 10 minutes before pouring; aerated 5 minutes in the glass (no chilling)

Color

This lovely merlot pours dark dark cherry red, almost maroon - love it!

Aroma

What a delicious aroma on this non-alcoholic wine. Beautiful layers of vanilla, blackberry and tart cherry. No hint of anything cooked or chemical.

Taste

This is a really fantastic tasting non-alcoholic red, and it’s definitely a very good example of how advanced dealcoholization technology can take a hard-to-dealcoholize varietal like merlot and be successful at creating something without alcohol.

It’s a dry wine, with soft soft tannins. There are juicy notes of blackberry, tart cherry, and a bit of black pepper with secondary flavours of cedar and something that is a hint of earthiness or herbaceousness (but very very minute - it just adds a bit of character and depth).

There’s a wonderful balance between fruit, acidity and very light tannins giving it some backbone. A little bit of lift from the moderate acidity. It truly tastes like the well-made merlots that I remember from the late 90s or early 2000s.

Mouthfeel and Experience

This is just the perfect dupe of a medium-bodied merlot but dare I say its bordering on full-bodied without being too rich. It’s almost soft and silky like a traditional wine, and you can definitely get a sense for what the parent wine offered. It has a medium length that leaves you wanting another sip which is really the only thing that matters - do you want to experience it again. The answer is yes!

What to pair with the Nett Breakaway Merlot

For me, this is a sipping wine. Of course you can pair it with foods that have some umami in them, or roasted meats, and it would be exceptional with gourmet pizza or juicy prime beef burgers. But I personally prefer this wine as something to drink on its own, slowly with a book or over a romantic conversation.

Overall

I really really loved this wine. It’s a really well made non-alcoholic red that really captures the luxurious essence of the original merlot it comes from. With merlot, because it’s such a soft and silky wine, I wasn’t sure how it would dealcoholize (and there aren’t many other non-alcoholic merlots) but there’s no hint of ‘cooked grape juice’ or anything that feels manufactured. It really makes me want to go back for a second or third sip to really enjoy all the nuances and flavours. I will be adding this on to the permanent rotation for sure!

Score: 96 points

How I rank wines (based on IWSC standards):

95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers

90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.

85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.

80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.