Cognato Non-Alcoholic Cabernet Sauvignon: A Review
/Cognato Cabernet Sauvignon, South Africa, 92 points
Sometimes in the non-alcoholic wine world, you expect a duck to swim up but then it ends up being a swan. When I first opened the Cognato Cabernet Sauvignon, that is exactly what happened. Before I get into what I mean, let me step back and introduce Cognato again as it’s been awhile since I reviewed their Chenin Blanc.
Cognato is produced in South Africa, and one of the appealing things about this brand is the ethos behind its creation.
Co-founders Adam Malmnäs and David Sommestad were both finding it hard to balance having a glass of wine with the demands of parenting young children. The inspiration for Cognato was to make great wine, without the alcohol, for anyone to enjoy while dining at lunch or dinner and still be able to juggle all the things involved with being a parent.
“We aimed to produce an alcohol-free wine that we, as wine enthusiasts, would be delighted to savor alongside a fine meal,” said founder Malmnäs. “We wanted a suitable alternative.”
Cabernet Sauvignon made sense for Cognato, as it’s the most widely produced red varietal in South Africa, more than even Pinotage, the country’s signature grape. Producers there have fine-tuned their viticulture to enhance the style over the past three decades, and now South African Cabs are on best seller lists everywhere.
So let’s dive in to the mystique of this wine.
Appearance
The Cognato Cabernet Sauvignon pours opaque and has some purple notes like a young red. I expected it to be a bit heavier/darker, but it looks more like a pinot noir than a beefy cab sauv.
Aroma
The aroma is blackcurrant and dark cherry, with a hint of oak and tar. Smells like a cab sauv.
Taste
On the palate, Cognato Cabernet Sauvignon is slightly jammy where black cherry and plum notes take center stage, enhanced by a very subtle dryness - maybe a hint of oak or cedar. The wine’s medium-minus body and low tannins give it a smooth, silky texture and it’s quite light and fresh with a gentle finish.
This is where the duck and swan reference come in. Although this is made with cabernet sauvignon grapes, the winemaking style and dealcoholization process has created a wine that is more reminiscent of a pinot noir, albeit with a softer acidity. This is actually its winning feature, as it’s better to have a drinkable, approachable non-alcoholic wine regardless of defined style, than it is to engineer something not true to the process.
While it’s lighter and fruitier than a traditional cabernet sauvignon, this non-alcoholic wine is still delicious and second-glass worthy. This is the silk dress of non-alcoholic reds!
What to pair with Cognato Cabernet Sauvignon
This non-alcoholic red’s lighter body and fruity profile make it an excellent match for roasted poultry, like herb-crusted chicken or duck breast with cherry glaze. It would also pair beautifully with creamy mushroom risotto or a hearty lentil stew - its smooth texture can balance out those richer flavors. A cheese board with mild to medium cheeses, like Brie or Gruyère, would highlight its approachable, jammy qualities.
Overall this non-alcoholic red is silky and smooth and has considerable personality and character. It’s not a classic example of cab sauv, but it’s still a remarkably well made wine and a delight to drink.
How we score wines at Some Good Clean Fun:
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
Overall: This non-alcoholic red is a silky and smooth and has considerable personality and character. It’s not a classic example of cab sauv, but it’s still a remarkably well made wine and a delight to drink.
Score: 92 points
