Phenomene non-alcoholic white: A Review of a French non-alcoholic wine
/The world’s first melon de bourgogne non-alcoholic wine
It’s been exciting to see the slow emergence of French wine makers starting to take non-alcoholic wine seriously. I don’t think there’s a better combo out there than a traditional wine maker who is excited about the innovation and possibilities for this category. We’re still in early days of this niche after all - the “new” non-alcoholic wines only came to market around the start of this decade. With the rise of more and more people choosing not to drink sometimes or all the time, more and more alcohol-free wines are coming out of France and today’s wine was a special treat.
Today’s wine comes from Domaine de la Grenaudière, established in 1723, and situated in the heart of the Muscadet wine region in the Loire Valley. Nestled between the iconic Sèvre and Maine rivers on granite-rich soils, the estate specializes in producing wines made from 100% melon de bourgogne grapes. Mathilde Ollivier and Stéphane Cottenceau, represent the 8th generation of the family managing the estate.
What is Melon de Bourgogne and why is it so special?
Melon de Bourgogne is a white grape variety native to the Burgundy region of France, though it is now primarily grown in the Loire Valley. It is best known for being the grape used to produce muscadet, a crisp, dry white wine from the Muscadet appellation in the Loire. The grape produces light-bodied wines with high acidity - they are often paired with seafood for this reason. Wines made from melon de bourgogne are often aged on their lees (dead yeast cells) to add complexity and texture which is a hallmark of muscadet wines.
Phenomene Dealcoholized Melon de Bourgogne
Phénomène is the first dealcoholized Melon de Bourgogne in the world and it’s a good thing experienced wine makers were at the helm of this project. Light and crisp varietals are hard to dealcoholize without adding in extra sugars after the alcohol is removed. With melon de bourgogne, the high acidity and richer texture from the aging on lees helps it to maintain the characteristics of the original liquid.
Aroma
On the nose, the Phénomene is all lemon and green apple with a hint of grass - almost like a sauvignon blanc from the same region.
Taste
On the palette, this non-alcoholic white is bright and crisp with notes of lemon curd, green apple and of course melon. It has a nice lengthy acidity and its very well balanced. A touch of minerality is present and a hint of salinity.
This wine is best enjoyed slightly warmer than fridge temperature, as that’s when the real character of the wine shines through. The liquid becomes more supple, a little bit more dense, and you can really taste the Loire minerality.
What to pair with Phenomene Melon de Bourgogne
This is a beautiful, sippable light wine with a very elegant character, so it’s best enjoyed on its own. If you must pair it with something, try it with baked white fish with a light herbal sauce or mild cheeses. Anything with too much citrus will destroy your experience so don’t you dare put lemon on your fish.
Score: 92 points
How we score wines at Some Good Clean Fun:
95 to 100 - An excellent drink with a great personality. An example that stands out among its peers
90 to 94 - An accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity. A classic example of its style or variety.
85 to 89 - A perfectly well-made drink which provides an enjoyable drinking experience.
80 to 84 - An acceptable but simple drink, lacking distinction.
We gave the Phenomene Melon de Bourgogne 92 points because it’s an accomplished drink with considerable personality, character and complexity.
